yagathai: (Burger me)
Right, so I think I've settled on what I'm bringing to the summer BBQ I'm attending on Saturday:

A big pile of double-smoked garlic bacon candied with maple and mustard.

Three fresh summer tarts, inspired by Clotilde Dusolier's recipe for "tarte fine aux courgettes jaunes, pate a tarte au yaourt".

I'm doing a gluten-free black sesame crust for all three. The one safe choice is going to be ricotta, basil and fresh Jersey tomato. Also I'm doing a ricotta, mint and zucchini tart with some lovely fresh thyme from my balcony spice garden, and the sweetest of the three will be a lavender, avocado and strawberry with a splash of balsamic and fresh ground pink peppercorn. If I can find a really mild goat's milk farmer's cheese I'll go with that, otherwise it's probably ricotta again.

I'll try to remember to take pictures.
yagathai: (Burger me)
Sweet fancy moses, I am so full I feel ill.

So! I did Alton Brown's tostone recipe (plus just a dash of red pepper flake to finish things off), and I improvised a chipotle aoili to go with them -- though it wound up going better with the pork, it was still pretty tasty. Recipe was pretty straightforward: I roasted a head of garlic, added the garlic to an egg yolk and a single chipotle pepper from a can of chipotles in adobo. Threw it in a food processor and slowly integrated 1.5 cups of olive oil and a couple of teaspoons of regular old white vinegar. Voila! Delicious aioli. Sometimes if aioli is supposed to be used as a structural component in a sandwich, like it was for the Double Downgathai, I'll add some bread to thicken it, but here it was completely unnecessary.

I chopped up 5 cloves garlic, added it to some salt, pepper, fresh oregano (not too much! A little fresh oregano in a marinade goes a long way), 1/4 cup lime juice, 3/4 cup white wine, some nice juicy slices of fresh ginger root and a whole orange sliced into sixteen or so small pieces. That all went into a ziploc bag with a half-dozen thin-cut (frying-thickness) pork chops and into the fridge for an hour. Meanwhile I made a chunky puree out of a single mango and 2/3 cups of sugar.

After an hour, the pork chops went into the frying pan, around 2-4 minutes a side. After they cooked I deglazed the pan with the remaining marinade, then added the mango puree and reduced it all until it formed a medium-thick glaze. That went on the pork, though as I said, the aoili also worked well with the chops.

Meanwhile I cooked a pot of plain rice, and to go with it I did a really simple black bean chile. I browned some onions (one, large, chopped) and garlic (five cloves, sliced) in a pot, then added a couple of cans of beans and the remainder of the small can of chipotles in adobo, plus some pepper, some oregano, some cayenne and some ground cumin. I cooked it down to a nice thickness and... ta-da! Instant tasty beans. I'd have thrown in some green pepper if I had any, but I didn't so I couldn't.

To drink we made some kind of deranged tropical something -- I call it the lima groglada. Equal parts rum and coconut milk to three parts limeade (which was itself around one part lime juice to three parts water, plus a good amount of sugar), all shaken with ice.
yagathai: (Default)
Dinner tonight is going to be cuban-themed, I think. There are some nice ripe plantains waiting to be used, so I'll do some tostones (do I want to try buying a tostonera from the local latin market? Maybe! Or maybe I'll save my money and use, you know, a spatula) and some mango-glazed pork chops, maybe double down on the carbs with a side of rice and beans.

Hm. I'll have to stop by the grocery store. We're all out of chicken broth for the rice so I'll have to pick up some store bought (it's just too damn hot to make my own stock right now). Or! Maybe I'll want to pick up some smoked ham hocks instead. Though since the beans are canned, I don't know that using smoked hocks is worth it -- I'd have to add them to the rice and that won't be nearly long enough to get all the flavor out of them. Hmmm. Well, the pork has got to marinate for at least an hour anyway. Maybe if I simmer the canned beans with the hocks for that time? Will the beans survive the simmer or will they just disintegrate?

Feh. Don't want to find out the hard way. Chicken stock it is. Maybe I'll crispy-fry some bacon, crumble it and throw it in there for the texture and umami. Or I can use chicharones.

For the glaze I'm thinking really simple -- deglaze the chops pan with some wine (red or white?), add some leftover pork marinade and some sugar. Reduce, add mango puree, maybe a little red wine vinegar for sparkle, pepper, salt. More garlic? Maybe, but there will be plenty of garlic in the marinade beforehand anyway.

6/2/10

Jun. 2nd, 2010 06:16 pm
yagathai: (Default)
While I made dinner last night, I also whipped together a quiche for dinner tonight. Roommate's boyfriend is visiting for the weekend, and she's using the kitchen tonight to bake him a cake, so I figured I'd get a jump on things rather than try to coordinate with her.

I used some smoked "chorizo"* from a local(ish -- it's on the other side of the state) farm, some mushrooms, shallots, garlic and onions, and I decided to see what would happen if I used some artisanal Mexican queso fresco instead of a more conventional cheese. The result certainly seemed nice and moist, but it was a salty block of cheese and I'm worried that when you combine that with the "chorizo", also quite salty, I may have overwhelmed the custard with saltiness.

We'll see.

*I was excited when I first heard about this product ("Smoked chorizo? Those are two of my favorite words put together!") but while it isn't bad per se, it's definitely not what I would call chorizo. It's like some salt-of-the-earth German farmer from Lancaster County read a description of chorizo in a book somewhere and thought "Ja, we can do that. Magda, add some paprika to the kielbasa mix!" I mean, don't get me wrong, it was very nice slightly-spicy smoked kielbasa, but it wasn't chorizo.

ETA: Yep, salty. Not inedibly so, but definitely more than I'd like. Should have added something sweet -- carrots, tomato, something. Ketchup does it some good, though. Cuts the salt.

ETA2: Too crumbly. Using the queso fresco was a bad call. Ah well!
yagathai: (Default)
Made the best pasta in my life today (along with some asparagus wrapped in coppa and some very nice garlicky sauteed chard). The pasta was a new brand, and the best gluten-free pasta I've ever had. I dressed it very simply, with Parmesan Reggiano (about 1.5 cups for 12 oz of dry pasta), fresh-ground black, white, green and pink peppercorns (relatively fresh, so they had a delightful tang), a little butter and a little olive oil. SO GOOD.
yagathai: (Burger me)
This is my version of the infamous KFC "sandwich". All of the bread or wheat products in this recipe can be substituted with roughly equivalent portions of reasonable gluten-free substitutes.

The Double Downgathai

Serves 6

6 chicken breasts, boneless & skinless
Eggs, extra large (roughly a four or five, but it might be more or less)
Seasoned bread crumbs
12-18 thick slices prosciutto (di Parma preferred, of course, but domestic acceptable)
Aged provolone, grated or shredded, to taste
9-12 slices nice fresh tomato
Fresh basil leaf

Virgin or extra virgin olive oil
2 eggs
8 good sized cloves fresh garlic
1 thick slice crusty italian or french bread
Cider or champagne vinegar
Fresh ground black pepper (and/or pink or green pepper)
1 medium-large lemon

You will need a food processor with one of those tops that you can open up and drop things into while the processor is running.

Let's start with the aioli.

Separate two eggs and discard the whites. Let them settle at room temperature while you zest the lemon (you only need a little for the recipe, but you can freeze the rest of the zest for later) and then juice it.

Pour about three tablespoons of vinegar over the slice of bread, then gently press the bread flat to squeeze out the excess. You don't want it squeezed dry, but you don't want it dripping with vinegar either. There's a certain balance involved.

Throw the two yolks, the garlic, the lemon juice, the bread, about 1/2 teaspoon of lemon zest, about 1/4 teaspoon of fresh ground pepper and a scant pinch of salt (kosher preferred) into your food processor. Start up the kitchen robot until everything is reduced to a more or less even paste. At that point, with the processor still running, start drizzling around 1.5 cups of olive oil down through the top. Make sure you add the oil slowly and gradually, not all at once.

You can adjust the amounts of bread and olive oil up or down to settle the consistency to where you want it to be. It ought to be somewhere between mayonnaise and sour cream. Some people like to cut the crust of the bread off and eschew the pepper because they don't like how it makes the aioli a bit darker, and that's fine. I have also tried this with roasted garlic cloves, instead of fresh, and it's delicious -- but it's much nuttier and sweeter, and calls for less vinegar.

Refridgerate the aioli before you move on to the next part.

Place a chicken breast on a heavy cutting board on a sturdy counter. Cover it with a layer of plastic wrap or wax paper, and go to town on it with a rolling pin, the flat side of a meat tenderizer or a mallet until it's around 1/4 - 1/2 inch thick (though whatever the thickness, make sure it's consistent -- you don't want a lumpy cutlet). The thicker you make them, the darker the breading will end up being. If you pound them too thick (like I did last time), you might end up with blackened breading. This isn't a big deal -- personally, I like them that way -- but most people prefer it a deep brown to golden brown, not black.

Thoroughly beat three eggs in a low, shallow dish (like a baking dish). Fill a second dish with around half an inch of flour (or cornstarch or tapioca flour) and a third with the seasoned breadcrumbs.

Dredge the cutlets first in the flour, then in the eggs, then in the breadcrumbs. Be a little stingy with the flour, unstingy with the eggs and err on the side of generousity with the breadcrumbs. Make sure that the chicken is coated thoroughly and evenly in crumbs. Add more eggs or flour or crumbs to their respective dishes as necessary.

For god's sake, don't try to return the excess flour or crumbs to the cointainer. Discard the remainder when you're done!

Heat around 1/8th to 1/4 inch of olive oil in a high-sided skillet (so that when you place a cutlet in the oil it's just a bit less than half submerged). Fry each cutlet in the oil, around 3-4 minutes a side, or until the chicken is done (but not overdone! Remember, it will continue to cook for a little while after you take it out of the fire).

Keep the cutlets covered in foil after you cook them to keep them nice and toasty.

Take half of the cooked cutlets from your meat pile and lay them on a baking sheet, then add a layer of prosciutto to each of them. Place this under a broiler or in a toaster oven for about a minute or so, just to get the prosciutto hot, them remove it and add a layer of sliced or grated provolone. Put it back under the broiler just long enough to get the cheese nice and melted, about another minute to two minutes.

Working quickly in the meantime as the cheese melts, take the other three cutlets, dress them on one side with aioli, and put down a layer of five or six (or more -- I'm not judging) fresh basil leaves and a couple of nice tomato slices.

When the cheese is melted, remove the meat-and-cheese cutlets from the broiler and place the aioli cutlets, tomato-side down, on top of them. Fix the two cutlets together with sandwich-sized toothpicks or skewers, and then divide then into two to four portions each.

Serve hot, with a side of coleslaw and sliced pickles.
yagathai: (Default)
This is weird. I could swear I posted this yesterday night, and tagged it, but today the post seems to be gone.

Anyway, as per [livejournal.com profile] babymonkey's request, here's the recipe for those cheesy brazilian gluten-free popover things that [livejournal.com profile] labyrinthyne turned me onto. I use a little more cheese and a little less salt, but otherwise I use the recipe right off the site.
yagathai: (Default)

Maple-candied bacon
Maple-candied bacon
So I didn't take a lot of pictures of the food that I made this weekend because I was busy, you know, making it. However, someone grabbed a quick iPhonetograph of the plate of maple-candied bacon before it all disappeared down the ravenous gullets of the piranhas I was feeding.

This is about 1/3 of the bacon, as the first 2/3rds disappeared in a buzzsaw blur of snapping teeth and grasping fingers before it could be documented.


yagathai: (Default)
This is the egg foo yung I cooked the other night.

yagathai: (Default)
Upcoming culinary projects:

The Great Gently-Masturbated Chicken Roast-Off, as previously chronicled, hopefully taking place this weekend.

Caramelized pork belly. I think first I'm going to do a more traditional Vietnamese-style version of it, and then if that goes well I'm going to see if I can actually candy it in a slightly savory hard caramel. This is predicated on me getting my hands on an extra-large cast iron skillet, as currently I only own a small one, and also finding a butcher that will custom-slice pork belly for me. I guess I'm off to the Italian Market, unless anyone knows a good pigmonger in the area they can recommend.

The Double Down. Yes, I want to do my own version the infamous KFC "sandwich". In case you've been hiding under a rock, it's bacon, mayonnaise and cheese stuck between two deep-fried breaded chicken cutlets. Mmm! I know some of you are thinking that that sounds like a vulgar, disgusting example of lard-gilding the cholesterol-lily, but that's only because you lack any sense of adventure. And also, you're right.

Taste test

Apr. 15th, 2010 06:50 pm
yagathai: (Burger me)
Anyone in Philly feel like helping me out with a taste test this weekend? I bought a fancy pasture-raised cage-free cruelty-free gently-masturbated organic roasting chicken at the farmer's market the other week, and I want to buy an equivalent-size supermarket-bought factory-farm roaster, cook them next to each other in exactly the same way and see if there's any difference in taste on the other end. That's right, I'm doing it up (as [livejournal.com profile] yuki_onna recommended) Mythbusters-style, and I could use additional opinions. Anyone game?

Posted via LiveJournal App for Windows Mobile.

yagathai: (Default)
I think that tonight for dinner I shall do some egg foo young in a mushroom gravy, because I need to finish using that ham, and maybe do some honey-rosemary roasted vegetables as a starch on the side. Potatoes, carrots, sweet peppers? Maybe some yams in there too?

We'll see.
yagathai: (Default)
Dammit! Burned the caramel topping. =/

ETA: Happy accident! Decided to make a little lychee syrup with just a hint of nutmeg to replace the caramel, and it is glorious.
yagathai: (Burger me)
Dinner tonight:

Sun-dried tomato crepes stuffed with chicken dijon-florentine (chicken, mushrooms, spinach, onions, dijon mustard, white wine) and a blend of manchego, jack and smoked cheddar. I steamed the chicken breasts with lemon and freshly cracked pepper, so they stayed moist and juicy. The spinach was a little old, but as I sauteed the hell out of it I doubt that it will make too much difference.

We're doing two desserts. Roomie is doing an apple & pear crisp, and I did a sweet cassava bibingka. Hooray!
yagathai: (Default)
Man, I screwed up dinner. I was going to do four courses -- a shrimp cocktail, deviled eggs, an anise and asparagus salad with lovely roasted peppers, and scallops provencal.

The shrimp cocktail wasn't chilled enough. Bad timing on my part, alas.

The deviled eggs turned out too salty because I accidentally used twice as much anchovy and caper as I should have (the recipe was for ten eggs, but I had ten halves). That's just a cockup, no question about it.

The fennel salad actually turned our really nicely, so that wasn't so bad.

But the scallops... I only remember using a little salt, the barest pinch -- but they were so incredibly salty that they were nigh inedible*. I don't understand it -- did I spill the salt shaker into them? Garlic, shallots, parsley and butter were the only things I added. Alternatively, were they... were they brined in a salt pickle at the market? I hear they do that sometimes to keep them fresher, but oh my god these things were utterly ruined. I can't imagine where all that salt came from.

I am unamused, friends. And also I have a salt headache now.

* I ate them anyway, as penance, but the roommate only took a couple of bites of her portion.
yagathai: (Default)
Tonight I steamed some brussels sprouts with some lemon, and did a magnificent and extremely large potato gratin with ground turkey, tomatoes and peppers in a mornay sauce. I also fried up some extra potatoes as an appetizer with some herbes de provence, and they were really quite amazing.

I am pleased tonight. I got to use my new silicone steamer and my inexcusably-neglected mandoline. There's a pan of granola squares (like granola bars, but square and not barlike) baking in the oven and the fresh, calming smell of lemon in the air. You know, it's been a long couple of months but I think that life is final-OH GOD MAKE THE FIRE ALARM STOP ALREADY YOU FUCKING SON OF A BITCH IT'S BEEN GOING OFF ALL NIGHT AND I'VE BEEN TRYING TO IGNORE IT AND FOCUS ON THE POSITIVE BUT I'M ABOUT READY TO SWITCH IT OFF WITH A MOTHERFUCKING CROWBAR OR PERHAPS A JET OF HIGH-VELOCITY BLOOD THAT WILL AT ANY MOMENT BEGIN SHOOTING FROM THE VEIN THROBBING IN MY FOREHEAD LIKE I'M ONE OF THOSE HIGH TECH BOMB DISPOSAL ROBOTS I SHIT YOU NOT MISS BRANT GET PARKER GET IN HERE THESE PHOTOGRAPHS OF SPIDER-MAN ARE CRAP.
yagathai: (Burger me)
Last night dinner was "country captain", which is apparently what some people call a kind of highly spiced chicken and fruit stew. I got the basic recipe from the last issue of Bon Appetit, but their recipe was boring so I jazzed it up a bit:

Chicken and fruit stew, aka "country captain"

Seasoning mixture

1 tsp ground coriander
1.5 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp cumin seeds
0.5 tsp whole black peppercorns
5 whole cloves
2 tsp ground cinnamon (or 2 cinammon sticks)
0.5 tsp turmeric
2 tsp five spice powder

Stew mixture

1 small head of cauliflower, trimmed, cut into 1-inch florets (about 4 cups)
Coarse sea salt
Worcestershire sauce (optional)
2 pounds chicken thighs, skinned and boned, cut into 1- to 2-inch pieces (weight is post-boning)
1 bunch green onions, dark green and white parts chopped separately
1 shallot, minced fine
2 tbsp fresh ginger, minced or grated
4 cloves garlic, minced
1.5 cups seafood broth (or chicken broth if you prefer)
1 cup apple cider
0.5 cups pomegranate juice
16 oz (1 can) crushed tomatoes
1/3 cup dried cherries, coarsely chopped
1.5 tbsp smooth unsweetened peanut butter
1 small package (10 oz or so) frozen peas
1/4 cup dried cranberries, coarsely chopped (optional)
Some toasted, unsweetened coconut shavings (optional)

Mix all the seasonings together in a bowl.

Heat some oil (peanut or olive) in a large, heavy dutch oven. Add the cauliflower and a sprinkling of salt and cook on medium-high until soft and slightly browned, 7-10 minutes. Remove the cauliflower and set it aside, add more oil if necessary, and then brown the chicken meat in two separate batches. Add a little salt and a little worcestershire sauce to the chicken as you're browning it, if you like.

Set all the chicken aside in a separate bowl. Add a little more oil if necessary, then add the shallots, ginger, garlic and whites of the green onion and cook for a minute or two. Add all the seasonings and cook, stirring, for another thirty seconds to a minute or so. Add the broth and bring to a low boil, making sure you scrape all the delicious brown stuff off of the bottom and sides of the pot. Add the can of crushed tomatoes, cover loosely and simmer on medium-low heat for 15 minutes.

Add the cauliflower and cook, uncovered, for 10 more minutes. Add the peanut butter, the cherries and the bowl of chicken (plus any juices that may have accumulated at the bottom of the bowl), stir, and then add the cider and pomegranate juice. Continue to cook on medium heat, stirring regularly, until chicken is cooked through and stew is desired consistency (but at least twelve minutes). Add the frozen peas, cook for about five more minutes (or until the peas are unfrozen and hot) and serve. Top/garnish with green parts of the green onion and, optionally, the cranberries and some toasted unsweetened coconut shavings.

2/2/10

Feb. 2nd, 2010 05:41 pm
yagathai: (Default)
Any Philadelphians know if any place in town will sell me a tub of duck fat and/or goose grease?

Dinner tonight is an autumny ham-and-squash stuffing, asparagus in an orange-ginger glaze and pan-fried lamb chops in a traditional rosemary-garlic deglaze.
yagathai: (Default)
Cooked a version of the curried squash and pear soup that I've previously chronicled, only this time I used fresh ginger instead of powdered, a different variety of pear (usually I use French aka red pears) and a couple of squirts of sriracha sauce. Oh, and beef broth instead of chicken, because the chicken was frozen and would have taken too long to defrost.

The cooking utensils that the hotel sees fit to provide are wholly inadequate. The saucepans are very, very thin, so they heat unevenly, and food burns and butter scorches extremely quickly. The cutting board is a flat block of very soft plastic. The knives can hardly be dignified by that name -- they are all serrated, even the "chef's knife" and "paring knife", and they're thin and light and awkward as hell. I have blisters from both. The vegetable peeler broke into two pieces inside of thirty seconds of use on a butternut squash. I ended up using one of my crappy pocketknives to peel and dice veggies, which is not the purpose for which it was designed or intended, though it worked better than those tools which were obsensibly purpose-built.

Though I can hardly afford it, I'm thinking of going out and buying a chef's knife and/or a santoku knife and/or a chinese cleaver sometime this week. The current situation is wholly unacceptable.

Post from mobile portal m.livejournal.com
yagathai: (Burger me)
Instead of cooking and possibly disturbing my neighbors, I ended up putting together a small snack plate built around a tour of the Continent: From France, a pair of French cheeses (a nice crumbly Roquefort and an inoffensive Tomme de Savoie, which was harmless and serviceable but which just couldn't hold up against the rest of the strong flavours on the plate, and was probably a mistake -- I should have gone for the feta or the chevre) and some thick slices of a juicy red pear. From Spain, some membrillo (a quince paste, in this case with a delicious honey finish), half a link of chorizo sausage and a half-dozen boquerones (a kind of lightly pickled, herb-marinated anchovy filet). From Italy, two kinds of capers -- salt-packed and oil-packed, and from Portugal a small glass of ruby port. Oh, and some hearts of palm from Costa Rica, which didn't fit with the Continental theme but I really wanted some for the texture and palate-cleansing mouthfeel.

I also ate a clove of garlic, because I don't have anyone to care about my breath.

Now I shall finish reading this novel, then take a sleeping pill and drug myself into what is hopefully a dreamless sleep. I do not like the dreams I've been having lately.

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